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When curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.